الحياة في المغرب : تجربة امريكي

                                  

قبل انتقالي للمغرب بعدة شهور, كانت لي عدة احكام و وجهات نظر حول العيش في شمال افريقيا و الدول الاسلامية.
ماذا يتوجب علي فعله حين اسمع اذان الصلاة؟ هل سأعامل بتسامح كوني مسيحي ؟ هل سيسمح لي ان اختلط بالنساء؟
كانت هذه جل الاسئلة التي كانت تجتاح فكري كلما فكرت بالذهاب الى المغرب.
المغرب الذي كنت اتخيل هو المغرب في افلام هوليود, كلما فكرت في المغرب ..كانت تتراء لي الجمال و الخيام و الفرق الاجنبية الفرنسية و الف ليلة وليلة.
من قدومي الى المغرب, اهلي و اصدقائي في امريكا يسألونني مختلف الاسئلة : هل لديهم طرق سريعة عامة  في المغرب؟ هل لديهم هواتف نقالة في المغرب ؟ هل يمتلكون غسالات الية ؟ كما اني سمعت اسئلة عديدة متعلقة بالجمال و الصحراء.

الان انا هنا, عشت و اشتغلت في مدينة فاس لعدة اشهر و كنت نادرا ما ارى اجنبيا في هذه المنطقة. استطيع القول اني مغمور تماما وسط الثقافة المغربية, فأنا أكل الاكل المغربي, أصدقائي مغاربة, ملابسي مغربية ,كما اني سافرت و زرت عدة اماكن.
منذ وصولي, رأيت كفايتي من اجهزة التلفزيون و الهواتف النقالة و الطرق السريعة و السيارات الفاخرة الاوروبية الصنع, الا اني لا زلت انتظر الوقت الذي ارى فيه الصحراء و الجمال التي يتحدث عنها الجميع.

كثير من الغربيين يحملون افكارا خاطئة عن المغرب. انا نفسي لم اكن أعي بشكل صحيح شيئا الى حين قدومي الى هنا.
لا يتم عزل النساء المسلمات في جناح بعيد بالمنزل ليتم منعها من اي تعامل مع الرجال, بل النساء في المغرب يعملون جنبا الى جنب مع الرجال في جميع المجالات  و الوظائف تقريبا. و يجدر بي ذكر ان النساء في المغرب لسن جميعا محجبات فالمغرب هو كباقي الدول يتمتع بتنوع ناسه و ثقافته.

بعض النساء من المحجبات يرتدين قفزات كي لا يظهر منهن الا منطقة العينين حين ينظرن من خلال حجابهن, كما ان البعض منهن يعتبر غطاء الرأس وحده كافيا. في حين ان بعض النساء لا يغطين رؤوسهن و لا وجوههن و هذا لا يضايق احدا من افراد المجتمع.

و من الملاحظ كثيرا ايضا رأيت محجبات يمشين رفقة سيدات لا يرتدين سوى وشاح لو لا يغطين رؤوسهن على الاطلاق, فهن نساء تجمعهم صداقات وطيدة  رغم اختلاف قناعاتهم الدينية .

تتمتع النساء هنا بحقوقهن ايضا, بعض الناس يعتقدون خطأ بأن النساء المسلمات يعشن في اضطهاد لمجرد ان نسبة قليلة منهن لا يعشن حياة حرة. أنا أعتقد ان النساء في المغرب هن من اكثر النساء حرية في العالم الاسلامي, فهن يذهبن و يجيئن متى يحلو لهن, يقودون السيارات, و يمارسن الاعمال التجارية او باقي الاشياء الضرورية.
ينبغي على المرء ان يعرف انه و بخلاف للنساء في الغرب, فالإسلام ضمن للمرأة حق التملك و الوراثة للممتلكات.  كما ان الحضارة الاسلامية عرفت عدة نساء قويات كان لهن تأثير قوي على مدى هاته الحضارة.

ففي فاس و على سبيل المثال, ستجد كنيس يهودي و مسجد الجامعة والذي تم تأسيسه من طرف نساء. جامعة القروين التي أسستها فاطمة الفهرية و تشتهر بكونها أقدم جامعة في العالم  تعمل بكيفية مستمرة, فمن الواضح ان النساء لم تكن محتجزة في اماكن مخصصة للحريم طوال اليوم بل كانت تلعب دورا هاما و مؤثرا في مجتمعاتهن.

و يجدر بي الاشارة الى ان المغرب هو دولة في طور التقدم تتمتع بشوارع واسعة و مرصفة ,كما ان في فاس توجد نوافير في كل منعطف .

كما شهدنا دعاية كبيرة لمشروع الملك لبناء خط الترام في الرباط و الذي يبدو انها كانت تجربة ناجحة. وخلافا لما قد يظن البعض فلدينا كهرباء و مياه جارية و كل متطلبات الحياة المريحة في هذا العصر الحديث. فلم ينقصني اي شيء مما كنت معتادا عليه في امريكا حتى مزيجي المفضل من تبغ الغليون.

يتمتع المغرب ايضا بقدر كبير من التسامح, فقبل سفري الى المغرب, فقد حذرني الكثير من الاصدقاء بخطورة ما أنا مقدم عليه خصوصا انني مسيحي و على وشك الانتقال الى دولة اسلامية. فالمسلمون يكرهون المسيحين ,هذا ما يقولون, ربما كان هذا صحيحا في بعض الاماكن لست ادري فمنذ مجيئي الى المغرب كنت اتناول طعامي مع مسلمين و نمت في بيوت لهم و اهتمت بي ممرضة منهم  حين مرضت لم احس باضطهاد او تمييز او احتقار في شخصي قط لكوني لست مسلما. اصدقائي كانو على دراية بأني لم اصم شهر رمضان و لم يزعجهم ذلك البته.

في الواقع, قمت بزيارة بعض الأصدقاء مسلم خلال شهر رمضان, وقد اصروا ان يعدوا لي طعاما لكي يتسنى لي تناول الطعام خلال النهار كالمعتاد بالنسبة لي. هم لا يتنولون الطعام الى حين الغسق و رغم ذلك لم يطلب مني احد ان اصوم معهم. ولم يحاول قط احد من اصدقائي المسلمين من مجيئي الى المغرب ان يقنعني باعتناق الاسلام. ببساطة ديانتي لا تشكل بنسبة لهم ادنى قلل.

انا الان اعيش في المغرب, مفاهيمي الان تتمتع بأسس اقوى و اصح و قد تم تصحيح جل المفاهيم الخاطئة و موافقتها مع الحقيقة.

الان اعلم أنني حين اسمع اذان الصلاة استطيع تجاهله. فالحياة عندي لا تتوقف حينها. الان اعلم ان معظم الناس لا يكترثون لديانتي و لا شيء يدعوني للقلق باحتمال تمييز عنصري و ديني في حقي. كثير من المسلمين يدعونني اخا او صديقا و انا متيقن انهم صادقون في مشاعرهم. أستطيع التواصل مع النساء, استطيع مرافقتهم, المشي و الحديث معهن سوى في الطريق او في منازلهن دون ادنى مشكلة. من السهل العيش في مجتمع اسلامي و انا مرتاح جدا هنا, و أعتقد بأنني سأبقى في المغرب وقتا أطول.

                                                                            جيس ل نورتون : مراسل المغرب اخبار العالم في فاس المغرب

  English version: here

A Journey through the United Arab Emirates

When I arrived at Dubai International Airport, I was struck by how cosmopolitan and busy it was, despite the very early morning hour.  The women in the airport were covered from head to toe in flowing black robes, and I could see the dark eyes of only a few.  Among some of the younger women I encountered, however, I noticed hints of “Western wear” under their traditional dress, including jeans and designer handbags. 

Once I left the airport, I was struck by the humidity and proliferation of expensive cars outside – Mercedes, BMWs, and SUVs with tinted windows.  Many of the drivers were talking on cellular phones, anxiously honking at other drivers, and attempting to pick up newly arriving passengers.

At that moment, it finally became real to me that I was thousands of miles away from the small Georgia town where I grew up in the United States; a town where everyone knows everyone and where, at first glance, you might not believe there is much to do.  How was it possible that I, a wheelchair user and Black woman, was able to travel to the United Arab Emirates (UAE) alone, with all of the obstacles that seemingly confronted me?

"Regardless of the level of accessibility abroad, we learn something about ourselves and others. Furthermore, others may learn from us.  In fact, the more people with disabilities travel, the better accessibility will become."

In addition to growing up in a small community, I have a disability (Juvenile Rheumatoid Arthritis), so I never imagined that I would be able to travel to another state, not to mention another country.  Furthermore, until I met Dan Hopkins, CEO of the Rocky Mountain Technical Assistance and Consulting Center, I had never met a person with a disability who had traveled internationally.  Mr. Hopkins has a visual impairment, and it was he who “planted the seed” in me to travel abroad.  With his encouragement when I was an Assistant Professor at Langston University, I applied for a fellowship from the Center for International Rehabilitation Research Information and Exchange (CIRRIE) to spend one month assessing the attitudes of people with disabilities in the UAE.

In addition to preparing for my first international travel experience, I had to prepare to travel to a country where attitudes regarding my disability, ethnicity, and nationality were a concern for me. I also knew that the infrastructure would not be as accessible as it is in the United States. Still, I knew that I could adapt.  I played out every scenario in my head before I left.  What if I can’t get off the plane?  How will I get around?  How will I be perceived?  Will I be able to use the restroom?  What impact will I have, if any, on the people of the UAE?

In the end, my many concerns proved unwarranted.  Everyone was receptive and warm towards me. I did not experience any negativity from the people assisting me off of the plane, nor at any other time during my month-long stay in the UAE. I never experienced any fear, as strangers treated me like family from the moment we met.  I reciprocated this respect, often in small ways.  For example, I am not fond of tea or coffee, but drank it graciously each time it was offered to me. I quickly learned the need for an open and flexible mindset when traveling, especially internationally.

Each morning, before the busy day we had planned, I woke up to the beautiful sound of the call to morning prayer. I stayed in Al-Ain, a city in one of the seven emirates of the UAE.  During my stay, however, my host, Dr. Nasser Al-Ameri, took me to other emirates, including Dubai and Abu Dhabi, as well as to a number of rehabilitation centers.  We also visited sand dunes in the desert and the highest peak of Jabel Hafeet Mountain.  I never thought that I would be atop a mountain, but there I was.  Travel makes many experiences possible! 

Access and People with Disabilities in the UAE

Despite the beautiful sites and a warm reception from local people, I did face architectural barriers in the UAE. In truth, I would have been unable to navigate on my own, a fact that was not lost on my host, Dr. Al-Ameri.  In order to adapt, I relied on my host, and others, for assistance entering inaccessible buildings, including restaurants, and getting in and out of vehicles.   

The barriers that I experienced in the UAE were architectural, all of which could be fixed given the tools and knowledge to do so.  For example, some of the public restrooms I encountered in the UAE were big and modern, purposely designed for mothers who need changing space for their infants. Given similar forethought to people with disabilities, accessibility could have easily been added to the design as well.  Since this wasn’t the case and there were no handrails in sight, I stood using the sink, or anything else that was available, for leverage.  I also had use of a bathroom in my host’s home that was accessible, although not by design.

Prior to my arrival, my host constructed a ramp to his villa and offered to rent a car for the duration of my stay, knowing that it would be difficult for me to climb into his SUV.  I declined, however, certain that we would find a way for me to use his vehicle, and we did.  I am unable to bend my legs or walk up steps, so we placed bricks on the ground in front of my wheelchair as leverage.  As I pulled up from my chair, I stood on the bricks themselves, instead of the ground, and thus was high enough to maneuver into the vehicle.  It was a perfect example of a reasonable, practical and inexpensive accommodation! People with disabilities who travel to the Middle East, or any other region, should ensure that they have an excellent point of contact in the host country, in addition to creative ways to handle challenging situations.

During my stay, I also got to observe how people with disabilities from the UAE manage.  At a governmental rehabilitation and employment center for people with disabilities, I learned a great deal about the services that are provided to young adults with disabilities in the UAE. The goal of the center is to increase opportunities for people with a variety of physical disabilities by providing not only employment training, but rehabilitation training, counseling and guidance, and recreational and cultural activities, as well. Some of the students were receiving employment training in graphic design, computer maintenance, and receptionist training, to name but a few occupations. One student boasted to me that she had recently received her driver's license!

Fortunately, I had an opportunity to attend the graduation ceremony of some of the students, which left a lasting impression on me.  I was surrounded by graduates in traditional dress, and I blended in with them, as I, too, was dressed traditionally.  The audience listened attentively as the President of the UAE, Shiekh Zayed Bin Sultan Al Nahyan, addressed the students directly via video.  The graduation ceremony was indeed more “royal” than any I have ever attended. Moreover, the expressions on the faces of the graduates left me speechless. They were proud, as they should have been. Although I was only there for a few hours, I felt a certain kinship with those students, knowing that their accomplishments had not come easily.

The Lessons

Although the initial purpose of my trip was to assess the attitudes of people with disabilities in the UAE, I discovered that my visit had brought a new sense of awareness to my host, Dr. Al-Ameri, of architectural barriers to people with disabilities. He had observed my independence during a trip to the United States and realized how inaccessible the environment was when traveling with me in the UAE.  As a result of my visit, he too learned something about access and the need to foster change. For local people to internalize that attitude is very powerful.

During my short tenure in the UAE, I learned more than I ever could from a textbook.  I learned that this world truly is smaller than we think. It is easy to say that, but unbelievable to actually experience it.

Dr. Shonda McLaughlin has since moved on to become an experienced full-time counselor with the Washington, D.C., Regional Office of the Department of Veterans Affairs

Second, regardless of geography and disability, people with disabilities really can “go anywhere.”  Yes, there may be some barriers, but that really is the fun part!  Regardless of the level of accessibility abroad, we learn something about ourselves and others. Furthermore, others may learn from us.  In fact, the more people with disabilities travel, the better accessibility will become.

My experiences in the UAE have impacted me professionally as well.  In the classroom, I am now able to share my experiences with students and to encourage them to travel internationally.  Furthermore, I have discovered that my positive experiences in the UAE have helped to dispel preconceived notions of the Middle East.

Most importantly, I learned that stepping outside of my comfort zone is very rewarding, even if I am from a small town in Georgia. Exposure is a great teacher.

As Salaam Alaikum.

For more information:

The Center for International Rehabilitation Research Information and Exchange (CIRRIE) conducts four types of international exchange programs involving researchers and technical assistance experts.

The National Clearinghouse on Disability and Exchange (NCDE) has an online database of international exchange programs for students and professionals, including programs located throughout the Muslim World and the United States. 

A World Awaits You: Muslim World Issue features an extensive list of local, regional and international disability organizations, by country, and includes links to scholarship and financial aid resources for Americans and citizens of predominantly Muslim countries.

The Independent Living Institute offers to people with disabilities and their organizations online services and information, training materials, consultancy and technical assistance.  The Study and Work Abroad for All project builds a database with information about international study and traineeship opportunities for young people with disabilities.

The Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (SATH) is an educational nonprofit organization whose mission is to raise awareness of the needs of all travelers with disabilities, remove physical and attitudinal barriers to free access and expand travel opportunities in the United States and abroad.

About the United Arab Emirates

With a history of over 5,000 years as an important post on ancient trade routes and thriving ultra-modern cities, infrastructure, shopping and entertainment, the United Arab Emirates (UAE) has an astonishing mix of past and present.  This combination of the traditional and modern makes the United Arab Emirates a rich and fascinating travel destination in the Middle East.

Located within the Arab world, the United Arab Emirates borders Saudi Arabia, Oman, the Persian Gulf, the Straights of Hormuz and the Gulf of Oman.

Comprised of seven separate, but united Emirates or kingdoms (Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Sharjah, Ajamn, Ras Al-Khaimah, Umm Al-Quiwain and Al-Fujairah), the UAE gained its independence from British colonial authorities in 1971 and has since built itself into a modern success-story.

Like many countries in the Middle East, the United Arab Emirates is relatively accessible for people with disabilities – especially in the cities of Abu Dhabi and Dubai.  Early in 2004, a draft law was submitted to grant and protect the rights of people with disabilities in the areas of employment, healthcare, education and access to facilities and services.  Equal rights without discrimination is the underlying goal.

By Shonda McLaughlin

Source : here

In Light of Today's Situation, Arab Culture and History

It is not new that during one period or another, the Occident was in conflict with some Arab countries, and therefore became their enemy.  The Arab World tried many times to recover and emerge from the defeat of the time of the Arab Empire of the Umayyad Caliphate. It had always dreamt of finding again the glory of the past trough any new leader who could reconstitute the Arab Empire of that time.  In our time we have known such leaders as Gamal Abdel Nasser who, along with Muhammad Naguib led the Egyptian Revolution of 1952 which removed King Farouk. Many in the general Arab populace still view Nasser as a symbol of Arab dignity and freedom. The other leader, Saddam Hussein Abd al-Majid al-Tikriti also wanted to be the leader of an Arab Empire. Each one in his own way.

We should not ignore the influence of religion which played and still plays a considerable role in all Arab states. During the time of the Umayyad Dynasty the greatness of the Empire grew considerably with the birth of Islam. In fact before Islam, the Arabs were peaceful and never conquered any foreign land. Their culture played a great role in the life of every family before the appearance of the religion. By wanting to promote Islam, the Arab conquered in every direction. They promoted the religion but not their culture. In fact until today the Arab culture teaches a lot of respect for the other and emphasizes friend ship among  neighbors and nations.

The religion of Islam is divided between Sunni and Shiites. The Sunni whose origin is in Arabia and many of whom are speaking the Arabic language and the Shiites or Shi'ites, whichis promoted far away from Arabia and many of whom are in non Arabic language speaking countries in Asia and in Africa. After the passing of Mohamed the latter suggested during the lifetime of Ali that he should be the leader of the Muslims after Mohamed’s demise.

The various conquests have submitted many populations to the conquerors’ rules. They have created enemies and hatred over the centuries. The Arabs lost not only their greatness and their independence, but above all, their dignity.
Those who grew up in Arab countries know their culture well: the art of food, the music, the dance, the stories, the proverbs, and their loyalty to friends and to neighbors. It is true that the Muslim religion has given an élan to the expansion of the Arab people.

Since then the Arab mass is dreaming of the hero who would recapture their position and their standing in the world.  It is irrelevant whether the hero would be a dictator, a wise man, or a religious leader.  It is clear that after the fall of the Empire, the Arab countries have been conquered and colonized each one at a different time. In recent times, the Europeans have played a big role in conquering Arab countries.  Just to name a few, Turkey, Great Britain, France, Italy, Germany, etc.

In reference to Turkey and Iran, which are in the news these days, yes they are Muslim Shiites with completely different languages and cultures. At the beginning, the Arabs have conquered those countries and many others with the Islam. Afterwards those countries conquered the Arab countries. That Turkey and Iran are today trying to interfere with the Arabs like the Hezbollah in Lebanon and Hamas in Israel is a question of politic s. These two countries are trying to recapture their own greatness through the common religion of Islam, as they did before. The Arab countries are aware that those countries do not really want to help them, but to advance their own causes.

The Western countries rarely go deep into the Arab cultures, which do not derive from Christianity. They certainly know the history of each people, country or nation and all historical facts, but in order to better appreciate other cultures and civilizations one needs to have lived in them and immersed oneself in their daily life, in order to realize certain values and the feeling of each civilization.

Men feel strong when they know their subject but they withdraw into themselves when they approach an unknown subject. It is actually a weakness not to respect another culture.  The weakness is dangerous as it invites men to aggression or to supremacy dreams.

Today I am trying to sort out among certain cultures and civilizations which I have come to know. I have barely learned to distinguish between the deep values and the superficial ones.

In fact there is good in every culture and in every civilization. It is upon us to know how to extract it. One needs to find the links that unite us. Tolerance and respect for others is the elementary base of coexistence and of peace.

One should accept people as they are, without trying to force upon them our will and our way of life. As Oriental wisdom has it: “Those who do not honor the stranger and the man of another tribe, are not worthy of being called the sons of a great nation.”  Those who do not respect this principle harm others.

We recognize that democracy does not have the same meaning in every culture.  It varies from nation to nation and depends on their culture and their way of life.  What is good for one nation is not always good for another one.  It is essential that each nation should be able to blossom and realize its potential according to its way of life, in security and in peace.

I feel that it is pity that Israel and the Arabs are fighting each other. In fact they have much more in common, which could unite them, than the differences that divide them. But there are other countries which are neither Jewish nor Arab and are trying to divide them. Feisal mentioned in his letter at the Paris Peace conference in 1919 as below:

“The ultimate aim of Feisal is, an Arab federation embracing Mesopotamia, and a Jewish Palestine, all under British mandate”
.
The author’s note: In my view, they should start recognizing each other and take the advice of Feisal, but without any foreign mandate. They should concentrate on forming a common market which could largely benefit their people.   Now that the Arabs saw the revolutions in their backyard, they should abandon their claim to the land; after all there is no shortage of land in the Arab World.  Now is the best time to show the Arab generosity to the world, as it is always mentioned in Arab literature and stories.

Copyright Emile Tubiana

Source: here

Life in Morocco: An American Experience

Fez, October 3, 2011

Before I came to Morocco several months ago, I had many conceptions and misconceptions about living in a North African, Islamic country. What must I do when I hear the call to prayer? Will I be tolerated as a Christian? Will I be allowed to associate with women? These were all questions that came to my mind when I thought of coming to Morocco. The Morocco of my mind was the Morocco of Hollywood films and when I thought of Morocco, I thought of camels, tents, the French Foreign Legion and the One Thousand and One Nights.

Since I have come to Morocco, my friends and family in America have asked me many questions. “Do they have highways in Morocco?” “Do they have mobile telephones?” “Do they have washing machines?” I’ve also heard more than enough questions about camels and about the desert.

Now I am here. I have lived and worked in Fez for several months and I scarcely see anyone who is not Moroccan. I am entirely immersed in the culture. I eat Moroccan food, my friends are Moroccan, my clothes are Moroccan, and I have done a fair amount of traveling.

Since I arrived, I have seen my fair share of televisions, mobile telephones, highways and European luxury cars. I am however, still waiting to see the desert and those camels that everyone keeps talking about.

Many westerners have misconceptions about Morocco. I myself did not understand things well until I arrived. Muslim women are not shut up in some distant wing of their house where they are forbidden to have interaction with men. The women in Morocco work together with men in just about every job. I should also mention that not all women in Morocco are veiled. Morocco, like every other country has a diversity of people and of culture.

Some women are veiled and wear gloves so that the only part of them that is seen is their eyes as they look over their veils. Other women wear a scarf to cover their hair and they consider that to be sufficient. Then there are other women who do not cover their heads nor their faces and no one seems to be bothered about it.

It is common here in Morocco to see a veiled lady walking with a lady who only wears a scarf or perhaps with a lady who does not cover her head at all. These women who have different religious convictions all get along with one another and are friends.

These women have rights also. Some people make the mistake of thinking that because some Muslim women do not live free lives, then all Muslim women are oppressed. I think that the women of Morocco are among the most free of all of the women in the Islamic world. They come and go as they please. They drive cars. They do business or whatever else is necessary.

One should note that unlike the women of the west, Muslim women have always had the right to hold and inherit property. There have been many very powerful and influential women in Islamic civilization.

For example. in Fez one will find both a synagogue and a Mosque-university which were founded by women. The University is Al-Karouine which was founded by Fatima al-Fihri and it is reputed to be the oldest continuously operating university in the world and the synagogue is Em-Habbanim Obviously these women were not shut away in the harem fanning themselves all the day long. They were an important and influential part of their society.

Another issue should be mentioned, that is that Morocco is a very modern and progressive country. The streets are paved and wide. In Fez, there are fountains at every turn.

There has been much publicity this year about the King’s project of building the tramway in Rabat which apparently has been successful. Contrary to what some people might think, we have electricity, running water, and everything else that one requires for a comfortable life in this modern age. I have not done without anything to which I was accustomed in America save my favorite blend of pipe tobacco.

In Morocco there is a great deal of tolerance as well. Before I traveled to Morocco, I was warned by many friends that it could be dangerous for a Christian to travel to a Muslim land. After all, Muslims hate Christians, they say. Well, perhaps that is true in some places. I don’t know. I am in Morocco. Since I have come to Morocco, I have dined with Muslims. I have slept in their houses, I have been nursed by them when I was sick and they have never insulted me or discriminated against me for not being a Muslim. My friends know that I did not fast for Ramadan and they are not bothered.

In fact, when I visited some Muslim friends during Ramadan, they insisted on preparing food for me so that I could eat throughout the day as I am accustomed to do. They never ate until dusk, but they never asked me to fast with them. Never once has any of my Muslim friends tried to convert me to Islam since I came to Morocco. My religion is simply not anything that they are worried about.

I live in Morocco now. My conceptions now have a foundation and my misconceptions have been corrected and adjusted to correspond to the truth. Now I know that when I hear the call to prayer, I can ignore it. It does not stop all life and movement when it is sounded. Now I know that most people don’t care what my religion is. I don’t have to worry about being discriminated against. Many Muslims call me brother and friend and I know that they are sincere. I can associate with women. I can walk with them in the street and talk with them in their homes and there is no problem. It is easy to live among Muslims and I am quite comfortable here. I think that I shall stay for quite some time.

By Jess L. Norton is Morocco World News’ correspondent in Fez, Morocco.

Source: here

My trip to Turkey- July 2012

Here is a detailed report about my trip to Turkey last month to attend the World Deaf Football Championships and the Miss and Mr Deaf International Pageant, both in Ankara, Turkey. I visited two cities in Turkey- Istanbul and Ankara.

I took the nonstop Los Angeles to Istanbul flight on Turkish Airlines for less than 13 hours and it was very tiring and boring. My seat was not that comfortable as I sat in the coach section but had the aisle seat which was convenient for me to get up often and walk up and down the plane and drinking a lot of water. I also had two pillows on my seat to make myself more comfortable and tried to have some sleep with the blanket.

What impressed me most about Turkey is the Turkish people! They were very friendly and I had wonderful hospitality with them. As soon as I landed in Istanbul I took the bus to the city then taxi to my hotel. My Turkish friend from Facebook immediately came to my hotel with his friend and we made arrangements for me to go sightseeing and visiting the Deaf Club during my four-day stay in Istanbul. Even though I was very tired when I arrived to Istanbul, I agreed to have dinner with my two new Turkish friends and had a delicious kebab.

What strikes me the most about Turkey is that I had a wonderful experience there. It is more than the "bridge between East and West" of tourist-brochure cliche as it is a country that combines influences from the Middle East and the Mediterranean, the Balkans, and central Asia.

Most of Turkey is really in Asia ( 97%) so it is not really much in Europe! In Istanbul there is a bridge between Europe and Asia. It is interesting to cross that bridge as you could see many mosques. Turkey has a population of over 70 million and 98% Muslim! Amazing!

In Istanbul I stayed at the fabulous "apartment" called Fullhouse Boutique Residence and it was a lovely one-bedroom apartment with living room and a balcony in the heart of Istanbul at Taksim. Thanks to Booking.com to help me with this reservation. Very reasonable price and better than a hotel. They even have a maid to clean my room every day.

Bargaining is a way of life in Turkey and I bargained to buy souvenirs and other things. There are bazaars and markets in Turkey including Istanbul. Be sure to visit them as they have many beautiful things like carpets,diferent spices, clothes, jewelery, leather goods and souvenirs.

There are many things to see in Istanbul from the Christian and Islamic empires. Including the mosques and palaces that dominate the city skyline.

Be sure to visit the following:

Blue Mosque ( a must!)

Topkapi Palace

Aya Sofya- greatest legacy of the Byzantine Empire

The Grand Bazaar- great for shopping!!!!!

Yerebatan Sarnici- A MUST TO SEE!!! Underground cistern with fish. It is beautifully lit with walkaways to see statues and fish swimming. They are thousands of years old.

If you visit Turkey, you MUST NOT miss Istanbul at any costs. All major airlines fly directly to Istanbul then you make connections elsewhere within the country but please try to stay in Istanbul for at least three or four nights.

After visiting Istanbul I flew to Ankara, the capital of Turkey.

Istanbul used to be the capital many years ago but not any more. It was a short flight, about an hour then I took the bus to the city and then taxi to my hotel, Crowne Plaza to meet other friends and USA soccer players in the World Deaf Football Championships. I stayed at that hotel for a total of about 14 nights at a discounted rate with breakfast. It was a nice 5-star hotel but did not have a swimming pool. It was next to the large Mall and the Metro station which was helpful for my transportation needs within the city.

Ankara was very hot but that was expected. I enjoyed making new friends there especially the soccer players from Spain, Thailand, and of course the USA as we shared the same hotel.

AnakaMall was next to Crowne Plaza and it was a beautiful Mall with many stores and restaurants as well as a huge supermarket. It was a perfect location to shop or to eat. You could have American food there as I have seen fast food restaurants there like Mc Donalds, KFC, and Burger King. Of course I decided to eat at Turkish restaurants and cafes, enjoying their delicious kebabs or other meals.

I attended almost all American soccer games as the American journalist and took photos mostly of people and their Turkish culture. The American men soccer players did not win any medals as they were placed on the 11th place, unfortunately but they did try their best and played well. Turkey won the Men Championship and yes, the American women won the GOLD medal, as they were the first place beating the Russians. Congratulations to them!

There were some interesting places to see in Ankara itself. Among them:

Ankara Kalsei- the old castle on the top of the city. You must not miss it as the view was magnificent.

Anitkabir- museum and the palace of the First President of Turkey. Awesome. It reminded me of the Lincoln Memorial in Washington, DC but bigger.

Markets near the Ankara Kalsei- many shops and souvenirs to buy. Go up the castle first by taxi then walk down ( Ankara Nin Tarihi Yerleri) back to the Metro passing many markets and shops.

Kocatepe Camii- a beautiful mosque.

Kizilay- the main square of Ankara . Many shops and parks there as well as banks and others.

Hamam- the Turkish baths. I had a good massage there by professionals. VEry interesting and a must to see.

Of course I did not go to Turkey just to see the World Deaf Football Championships as I also went to the Miss and Mr Deaf International Pageant ( MMDI) at the beautiful Marriott Hotel which was about a 15-minute taxi ride from the Crowne Plaza. They had events daily and I managed to go there a few times to meet the contestants and their sponsors. They asked me to be one of the Judges for the Pageant and I was happy to accept so it was a big honor to be a Judge there to help pick Mr. and Miss Deaf International Pageant 2012- The winners were Mr. Cevat Simsek of Turkey for Mr. Deaf International 2012 and Natallia Rbbava of Belarus for Miss Deaf International 2012. I really applaud the hard working organizing committee including the leadership of Bonita Ann Leek and Rocco Leo Gaglioti and many others too. The Pageant was at the Kent Plaza Mall, a lovely Beverly Hills-style Mall. Thousands of people were able to watch the Pageant on live television. Of course I plan to see the Pageant again next year!

I really had a very busy schedule attending both the World Football Championships and the MMDI as well as going sightseeing and meeting new friends.

I plan to return to Turkey hopefully next year after the Sofia Deaflympics.

You can see some photos here but I have published many more in my ALBUMS here on Facebook. You can see them on Facebook.

At a market selling spices

The American women won the GOLD Medal at the WDFC!

After the Pageant at Marriott Hotel with John Maucere who came to Turkey as the MC of the MMDI

Presidential Palace

                       Judges of the MMDI

Source : here

Saudi Memories

My family first moved to Saudi Arabia in the early ‘90’s. This was before the first Gulf War, before September 11^th, before the subsequent entanglement in Afghanistan and second War in the Gulf. I had not yet turned seven when we landed at the Jeddah International Airport after 18 hours of travel from the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. Ten meters of snow were replaced by the orange glow of street lights over the gardens that lined each street. Palm trees and flowers that looked so startlingly out of place in the expanse of desert that surrounded the airport, kept alive by a constant steam of water - itself a product of a constant stream of oil exported to the Western world.

This wealth pouring into the country from buyers abroad was to structure all of my experiences in the country. The Royal Family of Saud controlled the wealth and used it to beautify their cities, palaces, and care for native Saudis. The design and management of these works and support systems were outsourced to specialists from the US, Europe, and to a lesser extent other Arab countries. The labor was done by migrant workers; Africa and South East Asia provided droves of young women as housekeepers and young men for the mixing and pouring of concrete.

Most of my time was spent in isolation from the Saudis and with only professional contact with the foreign laborers. Western workers and their families were housed in walled compounds in which wives were free to walk without covering their exposed skin, a law enforced by the Mutawa – religious police that were always a reason to flee to the restrooms and wait for them to pass when we happened to see them enter a shopping center. Not having hair covered was reason enough for deportation should one of these officers wish to enforce it.

My friends were the children of my father’s coworkers or those enrolled in the British Continental School of Jeddah.  Lebanese, Egyptian, Greek, French, British, and German playmates organized street hockey matches and a game called wall-ball which quickly degenerated into wildly throwing a tennis ball at whoever was closest. Waist bags full of marbles were conspiratorially opened and displayed to challengers before one of a certain perfect color was selected. Resting between the two competitors, the marble to be won or lost watched as a second flew past it until at last contact was made and the fight was over, the marble either returning to the safety of its pouch or being stolen away by its new owner. I lost a lot of nice marbles this way. I was never very good at it.

Back in the privacy of the Compound we would organize ourselves into battalions, working to build defenses and stockpile ammunition for a war against imaginary enemies. While some collected dates from the palm trees to be used as projectiles, others would climb the wall separating our compound from the bin Laden family junk yard. There Ethiopian and Filipino workers guarded broken bulldozers, discarded air-conditioning units, cement piping, scrap wood and a multitude of other necessities for any young army tasked with constructing a suitable fortress. We quickly learned the guard dogs there, scruffy German Shepherds, were more interested in human affection than protection, but that their playfulness would still give away our positions. The Filipinos were not fond of our pilfering and frequently chased off with sticks those of us not fast enough to dive into one of the many pipes or outposts we had scattered. There was no joy or terror like organizing the rescue party to climb back over the wall to find Ahmad after he had been separated from the group.

The school would periodically organize field trips to neighboring regions. One such excursion took us to Mada’in Saleh, a pre-Islamic city of the Nabateans. A city cut into the red stones of the desert, it is Petra scattered amongst the sand. Our route took us wide of the holy city of Mecca; the bus full of nonbelievers was not welcomed within city limits, and so our first night was spent next to a cliff face that did more to cut the loneliness of the area than the winds. After dropping us off, our Eritrean bus drivers left to secure us dinner. We played games in the sand until they returned with a goat which they butchered and roasted on an open fire that we were happy to help tend. After the first few bites of meat was eaten, a pick-up truck full of very angry and very armed Bedouin trained their weapons on our drivers and asked them, I would later find out, why they had stolen the goat. Papers quickly exchanged hands and the Bedouin, satisfied, departed. The goat was delicious and the games of throwing the removed testicles at each other was more than worth the price.

For a young American to be surrounded by that much diversity of religion and culture was something that made identifying with my peers stateside difficult after returning. I have not been back since our departure in 1996. Those who have been back since 2001 have spoken of Saudi Army presence outside of all Western compounds. I am glad I have not seen that.

By  Matthew Rasmussen

Colorado, USA

Lifetime Experience

I want to share my experience in Egypt, We truly had the experience of a lifetime!

Our group of 20 of us did an overnight tour in Cairo, which for we singles was less than 1/3 the price of the HAL tour (same hotel), in a mini-bus. 3 hours from Alexandria to Giza the first day was a long trip, but there was a pleasant roadside stop. Our guide gave us lira to use the toilets (common in the middle east).

Our destination was the pyramids at Giza. When we came around the corner it was a-maze-ing! Our guide taught us how to say NO THANKS to the “mosquitoes” of vendors trying to sell you something. “One dollar” they shouted for nearly anything they wanted to see to you. It was not unlike any beach in Mexico, and I found the bartering fun, but many people did not enjoy this part of the location. I bought some pens (10 for $5) and postcards.

Could have bought a lot more if I’d had dollars. The vendors indicated that Americans are staying away from Egypt and they were happy to see us there. We saw Saqqra, with the amazing well preserved crypt paintings, which I still can’t believe aren’t covered. You can touch them! We over- nighted at Le Meredien Pyramids in Giza. Beautiful hotel, but I don’t think they can get parts to fix things.

Of the three of us singles, one room had no electricity in the wing, my toilet flushed constantly and when I toyed around with the flushing mechanism I realized someone had put a bobby pin in it to hold it to the wall. We had dinner in the hotel, which had a lovely buffet for 180 Egyptian Pounds, , about $30, but we weren’t that hungry.

I sat down to a table alone, which I guess in a no-no in Egypt. I wasn’t recognized until my two table mates had arrived. We had martinis and steaks, and it came in under $20 per person. Jeanne ate the salad, we had ice in our drinks, no problems. The elaborate buffet breakfast was included in the a.m. before our group was off at 8:00am.

Today we were off to Cairo city center. Woah! 26 million people living here. Drivers have a sophisticated series of horn honks, and pedestrians wait by the roadside for mini-van shared transport, using hand signals to indicate where they are going. These vans stop on freeways to board passengers. It’s a dance, and everyone understands it, except the tourist. Most women wore the hijab, many in full burkas. Some wore very sophisticated clothing, and a hijab. Older women wore scarves tied at the neck.

Many men wore the galabia, a long cotton or linen robe. Then there were the cosmopolitan office workers in trendy black pants and button-down shirts and ties. We headed up to the Citadel to see the amazing silver mosque. We were allowed inside, and it is elaborate and ornate.

Just simply beautiful! We had a lovely lunch at the Happy Dolphin Restaurant, right on the Nile river. The buffet was varied and plenty. Drinks or bottled water was $2, diet coke $3. A visit to Tahrir Square and the Archaeological Museum was next, but getting there was a trip in itself. Traffic in Cairo is hectic, frenzied and constant, to say the least. As we drove, our guide answered every question we had about the Arab Spring uprising.

The museum was filled with many important statues and relics from tombs of pharos and queens. The whole second floor was a portion of the contents of King Tut’s Tome (less what was on display in Seattle at the time), and the gold room worth the price of admission all by itself. Afterward, it was a 3 hour drive to Port Said, through vast desert along the Suez Canal. We kept seeing Maersk Line container ships, all in a row, kind of like a convoy of ships.

What I didn’t realize until later, our ship was entering the flotilla and escorted out of Egyptian waters. I felt very safe the whole time in Egypt, and every person I came into contact with seemed genuinely happy to see us. Port Said had a long line of vendors as we headed for the pier, but the same old stuff we’d see for the last two days, nothing new, and we were cutting it close to departure time, so no shopping.

I would highly recommend Egypt excursions ( www.egyptshoreexcursions.com ) for the lovely trip at a reasonable price. Far and away the most exciting part of our 16 day cruise.

Source: http://www.fodors.com/community/africa-the-middle-east/i-want-to-share-my-experience-in-egypt.cfm

فن الخط العربي

كلمة الخطاطة في حد ذاتها, كلمة مأخوذة من اليونانية و التي تعني الكتابة "بخط يد جميل" و نخص هنا اللغة العربية

فن الخط العربي هو بالأساس شكل من اشكال الفنون الاسلامية التي تعبر عن

.الجماليات التصويرية, و تظهر الملكة الفنية و الابداع

تعبر برموز بسيطة عن الوحدة و الجمال و القوة من خلال جمالية الفن .خصوصا كونها كانت اول وسيلة للحفاظ و ايصال القران الكريم

فن الخطاطة بات يشكل في حد ذاته فنا, اكبر الخطاطين عملوا جاهدين لكي يجعلوا منه ما هو عليه حاليا فن متميز بكل المقاييس.

و بالإضافة الى ذلك, فان الخطاطات العربية و الفارسية و التركية العثمانية نجدها بكثرة الى جانب زخرفات عربية, تكسوا اسقفة و جدران المساجد و .هي تمثل جزءا مهما من الثقافة العربية

ان القواعد الجمالية التي تحدد الخط العربي ما هي الا انعكاس للقيم الثقافية للعالم الاسلامي

و البحث في الفروقات الموجودة بين فن الخطاطة العربي و الغير العربي قد يكون وسيلة لفهم خبايا و مميزات كل ثقافة على حده, فمن المستحيل ان .تتخيل الحضارة الاسلامية دون فن الخط العربي

نبع تطور الخط العربي من مخطوطات الشمال العربي, والتي تأثرت بالكتابة النبطية التي شهدت ازدهارا في الشمال الشرقي مع مطلع القرن الخامس خصوصا بين القبائل العربية التي كانت تقطن الحيراء و الانبار

و امتدت بعد ذلك الى الحجاز و غرب الجزيرة العربية و قد ساهم حرب ابن امية في نشرها بين الفئة الأرستقراطية من اهل قريش

.قبيلة الرسول مجمد صل الله عليه و سلم, 

و رغم ان المصادر العربية القديمة تصنف انماط الخط حسب المدن التي كانت تستخدم فيها, فان هاته الاصناف يمكن تقسيمها الى شقين اساسين مع اختلافات بسيطة بين الاسلوبين

و هما الاسلوب الجاف و الدي ينحدر منه الخط الكوفي

.و النمط الرطب و الذي اسس للمخطوطات النصية الموجودة

.و قد طرأ على الخط العربي عبر مرور التاريخ عدة تغييرات, وكذا تأثر بأشكال الكتابة الاقليمية و التاريخية

الاساليب الاكثر اعتمادا حاليا هي : الخط الكوفي و اسلوب النسخ و الرقعة و الثلث و الديواني و الفارسي

و بذلك يعتبر الخط العربي من اجمل و انقى اشكال الفن, وبكل اختلافاته و تعدد أساليبه فهو من ارقى الفنون في عصرنا الحالي,

احمد وحيد

القاهرة مصر

English Version

Tunisia 2012: A Transition Period

I know that physically, I look like a completely different girl to the one who left Edinburgh in March.  My level of attention to my appearance is probably about 10% of what is was.  Gone are the days of fake tan, false eyelashes and skyscraper heels. Gone, and good riddance I might add!

Even in my personality I'm told there is a change, but it's been harder for me to recognise.  I've always known who I am on the inside, it was being comfortable enough to reflect that on the outside that was difficult.

The pressure I felt as a young woman in the U.K was not only about aesthetics, although that in itself is enough to make anyone crumble quicker than a dropped compact.  It was the daily rat race to perfection, to have a dazzling night life, dream job, dream wardrobe, planned holidays, sporadic weekends and of course, not forgetting to photograph every single moment for Facebook, just in case others were in doubt that you do in fact love your life.  Or not.  

I probably fooled most.  Thank God I didn't fool myself.  Coming to Tunisia was one of the best decisions I've made in my life.

One of the first things that struck me about Tunisia, is the lack of advertisements.  Where on earth was all the stuff I HAD to buy?  And where were those perfect half naked woman that were put on this earth to make the rest of us mere humans feel bad about ourselves?  Everything that was so real, so part of my everyday life at home, had dissolved somewhere between the North Sea and North Africa.  There also isn't the same culture of celebrity and gossip magazines.   After 6 months without it, when I was faced with a copy of 'Heat'  magazine, I remember feeling genuinely offended by what was being said to me, both implicitly and explicitly.   Telling me 21 ways to have higher self-esteem whilst humiliating the poor reality TV star who has put on a few pounds.  

Now it goes without saying that there are pressures on women here too, each society has it's own problems. However as a 'westerner' coming here, it's like a cleansing of the mind.  I feel like I've regained a human sense of reality, with real human values at the core.  So what's important?  The same things that deep down we all care about in the U.K, family, friends and being a good person.  The difference is that here, these things take priority, without exception.  The western world teaches us to focus on the things on the surface and that that will make us happy on the inside.  In Tunisia, it's the contrary.

I watch teenage girls here going to school, in their trainers, jeans and blazer, looking liked fresh-faced children, which is what they are.  They're not plastered with make-up and dressed like girls in their twenties.  We need to take a good look at our youth in the U.K, at our young women and ask ourselves, how does our society nurture them?  Because as long as we continue to churn out images of unrealistic beauty and scathing attacks on women deemed 'too fat' or 'ugly', the '21 ways to better self-esteem' will be lost in the bottom of the make-up bag.  And I think, they deserve better.

This post is dedicated to my dear friend Lucia Spata.  'Each friend represents a world in us, a world possibly not discovered until they arrive.'

For futher stories from Kimberly, visit:

http://hurriyah-tunisia.blogspot.com/



By Kimberly Davidson 
Edinburgh, the United Kingdom

The Art of Arabic Calligraphy

The word calligraphy itself, taken from the Greek kallos (beauty) and graphy (writing), is literally understood in the West as ‘beautiful (hand) writing’ of the Arabic language.

Arabic calligraphy is a primary form of art for Islamic visual expression and creativity.  It is a very simple symbol representing unity, beauty, and power through art, especially as it was the primary means of preservation and transmission of the Qur’an (the holy book of Islam).  Today Arabic calligraphy has become, in itself, art. 

Great artistic calligraphers have worked hard to make it the brilliant art that we have today.  As well as this, Arabic, Persian and Ottoman Turkish calligraphy are associated with abstract arabesque motifs on the walls and ceilings of mosques and it is a very important part of Arab culture.  The aesthetic principles of Arabic calligraphy are a reflection of the cultural values of the Muslim world. Thorough investigation into the aesthetic differences between Arabic and non-Arabic calligraphy might provide an approach for understanding the essential spirit of each culture. It is impossible to imagine Islamic civilization without Arabic calligraphy.

Arabic calligraphic development stemmed from the North Arabic script, influenced by the Nabataean script, which was established in north-eastern Arabia and flourished in the 5th century among the Arabian tribes who inhabited Hirah and Anbar. It spread to Hijaz in western Arabia and its use was popularised among the aristocracy of the Quraysh, the tribe of the Prophet Muhammad, by Harb ibn Ummayyah.

Although early Arabic sources mention several calligraphic styles in reference to the cities in which they were used, they generally fit into two broad categories with only some minor variations. These categories are the "dry styles," the early predecessors of Kufic, and the "moist styles," the early predecessors of the cursive family of scripts.
Historically Arabic script has undergone different reformations, as well as being influenced by regional and epochal writing styles. Today the main styles are the Kufic script, Naskh style, Riq’a, Thuluth, Diwanii and Farsi.

We consider Arabic calligraphy to be one of the most precious unspotted art forms, elegant in its own right, this being a round-up of applications of the Arabic calligraphy in the real world.

By Ahmed Wahid

Cairo,Egypt